Rustic, charming and always crowded, this cozy trattoria is impossible to not like. The atmosphere is casual and fun, and the food is just as rich, homey and memorable as we've come to expect from this iron chef. Mario Batali's artic char is delicious and decadent, served on top of a puree of lemony, buttery cauliflower, and his calamari is perfectly crisp and seasoned, but I come here for the pastas: the spaghetti aglio e oglio - spaghetti dripping with melted cheese, pepper and olive oil - and the butternut tortellini - delicate packets of pasta stuffed with fresh, creamy squash - are my favorites. Less expensive than Babbo, but just as popular. Call early for reservations.